Everything is here: dry, wet, freeze dried, puppy through senior, and prescription diets. With this many products the filters will get you somewhere faster than scrolling, so it's worth knowing which ones actually matter.
Filter in this order
Lifestage first, because it removes the most products and matters most. Puppy food and senior food have their own pages if you'd rather start there.
Then breed size if your dog is at either end. Then anything your vet has raised. Grain free and hypoallergenic come last, not first: they matter enormously to a few dogs and not at all to most.
Large breed puppies are the exception
For most dogs, breed size recipes are a convenience. For a large breed puppy they're not. Big dogs that grow too quickly, or get too much calcium while their joints are forming, are at higher risk of skeletal problems later, including hip and elbow trouble.
So if you've a Labrador, German Shepherd, Retriever or anything heading past about 25kg, use a large breed puppy recipe rather than a standard one, and resist the urge to fatten them up. Lean and slow is the aim while they're growing.
The thing that matters more than the brand
How much you feed. A mid-range food at the right portion beats an expensive one fed by eye, every time, and overfeeding is far more common than underfeeding.
You can check by hand rather than by eye. Run your fingers along your dog's side: you should feel the ribs easily, with a thin covering over them, without pressing. Looking down from above there should be a visible waist behind the ribs, and from the side the belly should tuck up rather than run straight. If you can't find the ribs, the portion is too big regardless of what the bag says.
Weigh the food rather than using a scoop, and reset the amount whenever you change food. Richer food means a smaller portion, and that catches almost everyone out when they move up a tier.
Working dogs and VAT
Some dry food is sold VAT-free for working dogs, which makes it noticeably cheaper. The Working filter shows which, and there's a working dog food page. It's only legitimate if your dog genuinely works: gundogs, farm dogs, sheepdogs and the like. An energetic pet isn't a working dog, however far it goes on a walk.
Wet, dry or both
Dry food is cheaper per meal, keeps well and is easier to measure. Wet food is more appealing to fussy dogs and useful for older ones or anything with dental trouble. Plenty of people mix them, which is fine as long as you count both towards the daily total rather than adding wet on top of a full bowl.
Prescription diets
A number of products here are veterinary diets for diagnosed conditions. They work by restricting or adjusting things a healthy dog needs, so they aren't a general upgrade and some are unsuitable for a well dog. If your vet named one, buy that exact product.
When not to change food
If your dog is well, holding a steady weight, with a decent coat and firm stools, the food is working. There's no nutritional reason to upgrade, and switching for its own sake usually buys you a fortnight of loose stools. Change when something's wrong, when your dog moves lifestage, or when your vet asks.